Kathmandu, Nepal
Kathmandu city view
Our impressions of Kathmandu
Chaotic and dense: Kathmandu was an intense and hectic transition from what we were used to in Central Asia. Instead of the comfortably crowded, tree-lined boulevards and parks, we were now navigating a barrage of motorbikes, hawkers, and tourists in the narrow streets of Kathmandu. Walking around the city was an exhilarating experience that always commanded our attention and would serve as good practice for our time in India. We were also surprised at just how densely populated the city was. During our time in Kathmandu, we did not come across any parks or large open public spaces outside of religious sites
(Relatively more) touristy, but also inexpensive: The first thing we noticed upon arriving at our gate in Doha was how many western backpackers were headed to Kathmandu. This influx of tourists felt new and jarring after weeks of being some of the only tourists we encountered in Central Asia. This would carry over into Thamel (the main tourist area of the city), where the streets were flooded with backpackers. Despite the presence of tourists, we had no problem finding incredibly delicious food and trekking necessities for cheap
Beautiful and interesting mix of Hindu and Buddhist architecture: We loved being exposed to the buddhist prayer wheels, mani stones, stupas, and monasteries during our Everest Base Camp trek. Though the Khumbu region is largely buddhist, Nepal is 80%+ Hindu. We enjoyed walking around Kathmandu and Bhaktapur, where religious diversity manifested in a new and interesting mix of Newari Hindu and Buddhist religious sites
What we saw in Kathmandu
Walking Tour of Kathmandu: We spent one of our days exploring the streets and religious sites of Kathmandu on a popular “free” walking tour (you are strongly encouraged to provide a tip at the end) led by our knowledgeable guide, Shiva. Shiva took us on his thoughtfully orchestrated tour of the city that included the beautiful Kathesimbhu Stupa situated besides a Tibetan-style monastery, a private Newari living community and temple under restoration following the 2015 earthquake, a walk through the bustling Indra Chowk market including a section of numerous proprietors selling colorful glass beads for bridal wear (ranging from the cheapest Chinese beads to the most expensive Japanese beads), various local cremation sites, and the famous Swoyambhunath Temple (a.k.a “The Monkey Temple” for the hundreds of monkeys playing on and around the 365 steep step climb to the temple). It was a great way to see the city and also humbling to see the impact of the 2015 earthquake all over Kathmandu through what has been restored, is still under restoration, or has been left untouched following the destruction
Bhaktapur: The highlight from our time in the Kathmandu valley was the day we spent exploring the city of Bhaktapur. Located 13 km east of the capital city and a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979, Bhaktapur is known for its Newari architecture, tradition, cuisine and artisans. The main sites include a royal palace complex and various temples that frame the city’s famous squares like Durbar. The main sights were beautiful, but also incredibly crowded with tourists so we spent most of our day wandering around the narrow quiet streets of the area and admiring the stunning Newari architecture – red brick and ornate wood carved doors, windows, and facades – and artisans displaying their work in pottery square. We also ate our way around the city on a self-guided Bhaktapur food tour, including a traditional Newari meal set at Newa Lahana, Kulfi (a popsicle made from buffalo milk, cashew, almond and cardamom) that we enjoyed on the steps of one of the famous temples, and our favorite sweet treat Juju dhau (a thick, creamy yogurt made from buffalo milk and served in a small clay pot)
Strolling and shopping: We spent most of our time walking around Kathmandu and, for both necessity and fun, we found ourselves doing some shopping for the first time on our travels (we ended up shipping a box of stuff home before leaving for India). After arriving in Kathmandu, we had a short window of time before the Everest Base Camp trek to pick up some last minute necessities. Research led us to Shona’s Alpine in Thamel where a very nice man helped us stock up on winter gloves, trekking poles, knock-off North Face hats (Jessie’s bill was extra long for sun protection), and buffs (a new travel staple for Doug). After the trek, we also picked up some Nepal staples for our future home including a handmade sound bowl and Thangka painting
Where we ate and drank
Paru Thakali Kitchen: For our first and only meal in Kathmandu before our Everest Base Camp (EBC) trek, we ate at Paru. We chose this restaurant on a whim given its close proximity to Shona’s Alpine where we picked up the last of our trekking necessities. We didn’t know it at the time, but the dishes we tried here would become staples for our next few weeks in Nepal – Dal Bhat, Momos, and Veg Thukpa. We were quite jet-lagged from our 12+ hours of travel from Almaty, but everything we had was delicious
Yangling Tibetan Restaurant: We dined at Yangling the night we returned to Kathmandu from our EBC trek and it turned out to be one of our favorite restaurants in Nepal. It was a local joint with good reviews that was just around the corner from Everest Boutique Hotel (an important consideration given our eagerness to immediately return home and crash in a nice hotel bed after 2 weeks in tea houses). The focus here is on the food – it is a very simple second floor restaurant consisting of only a few tables. We feasted on Chili Chips (basically, fries coated in a spicy tomato-based sauce with chopped pepper and onion), Momos, and Tibetan Thukpa. The dishes were incredibly delicious – we washed them down with cold glass-bottled Sprites. The best part? It was one of the cheapest meals we’ve had on our trip to date
Yala Cafe: Yala sits in the heart of the Thamel district tucked away in a small alley. We came here for brunch before making our way to Bhaktapur for the day. It caters almost entirely to a foreign crowd (hence the much higher prices), but we enjoyed our breakfast and cappuccinos at Yala Cafe – egg white omelette for Doug and typical Nepali breakfast of Poori and veg curry for Jessie
Newa Momo Restaurant: Tucked away even further in the same alley as Yala Cafe, Newa Momo Restaurant is literally a hole in the wall. The restaurant is very barebones, only has a few tables, and no windows (unless you count the doorway). The food is freshly made to order – the same man that takes your order immediately walks back to the open kitchen to begin preparing the dishes (as a result, it often takes a while to get your food especially if there are others dining here). The wait is worth it, though (so much so that we came back twice)! The momos here are amazing – we tried them every which way, including steamed, fried, Kothey (steamed and then pan fried on the bottom), and smothered in Chili gravy
Newa Lahana: In Bhaktapur, we were eager to try some Newari cuisine. Newa Lehana was the perfect spot, hidden deep inside a network of residential alleyways. Seated on cushions on the floor, we dined on a delicious and unique set of Newari vegetable dishes and rice flakes accompanied by a lentil pancake with egg (a Newari staple). All delicious and it only cost us a few dollars
Gupta Bhojanalaya: Similar to Yangling and Newa Momo, Gupta Bhojanalaya is a no frills restaurant with only a few tables stacked along its narrow hallway space. Our first Indian dining experience since Tajikistan, we were excited to feast on some samosas, chole bhatura, paneer butter masala, and aloo paratha. It was incredibly cheap and we left very full and very satisfied. Though if you happen to find yourself in Kathmandu craving Indian, we’d recommend you visit Western Tandoori & Naan House (see below)
Sam’s Bar: We walked past Sam’s in Thamel (not knowing it was on every “best bars in Kathmandu” list) and decided to entertain it for a drink one night. It has a very fun vibe, its upstairs patio is decked out with neon signs, flags from around the world, and wicker outdoor lounge furniture. It wasn’t too crowded when we popped in and we enjoyed sipping on some cold beers, snacking on free popcorn, and wondering what the place was like on a busy night
Western Tandoori & Naan House: This was our favorite Indian restaurant in Kathmandu, which explains why it was bustling when we popped in. We really enjoyed the food and atmosphere here, so much so that we got distracted and didn’t take any pictures of the place or food (we dined on Paneer, Chana Masala, and fresh naan)
Coffee Ghar: We took one step off the busy Kaldhara Marg in Thamel and found ourselves in this calm and quiet Newari courtyard oasis. We enjoyed some cappuccinos and homemade cookies at Coffee Ghar while soaking in the beautiful architecture. We also bought two cups from here (loved the pottery) for $1 a piece. TBD if they made it home back in one piece…
Spize: Like many other restaurants we ate at in Kathmandu, Spize is a cozy spot tucked away in an alley less traveled in the busy Thamel area. They specialize in Tibetan food here, so we tried a few new Tibetan dishes we really enjoyed like Laphing (spicy mung bean noodles steeped in a red chili and coriander soy-based sauce) and the very interesting Tibetan Tea (which, despite its name, is really just a salted melty butter beverage)
OR2K: Our final night Kathmandu fell on General Election Day, which in Nepal means most roads and shops are closed and the streets are empty. We struggled to find an open restaurant, even in Thamel. After a few unsuccessful attempts we finally stumbled upon OR2K, which is a rather trippy upstairs joint (hand-drawn menus glow from the black lights above and seating is on cushions on the ground) serving up Middle Eastern, European and Nepali fare. We mixed things up by sharing a margarita pizza and falafel – both different and delicious than the Nepali fare we were so accustomed to
Where we stayed
Everest Boutique Hotel: After two weeks of sleeping in tea houses, the Everest Boutique Hotel was a real treat. Situated on a quieter street just off one of the main veins of Thamel, the hotel was clean, spacious, comfortable, and equipped with amenities like a reliably hot waterfall shower, toilet paper, and a toilet with a seat (all things we had come to appreciate after our accommodations along the trek). As a bonus, the rooftop provided a stunning view of Kathmandu. We’d recommend Everest Boutique Hotel to anyone, whether you’re coming off a long trek and in search of comfort or looking for a great home base in Kathmandu
Shine Homestay: We needed a place to stay for a few nights between returning back to Kathmandu from Chitwan and flying off to India. Shine served that purpose well, providing a comfortable stay in an area that we had not yet explored in Kathmandu. It truly felt like staying at home, as we met and chatted with the host and some friendly French folks at the homestay family’s dining room table. The host also let us use her family’s laundry machine and rooftop clothesline to do our laundry which was huge