Tokyo, Japan
Shinjuku at night
Our impressions of Tokyo
Biggest and cleanest city in the world: Tokyo is miraculously spotless for being the largest metropolitan area in the world with nearly 40 million people. We were all in awe walking around the streets of major neighborhoods and the subway. Especially since there are hardly any garbage cans around! We all seemed to be ready for a “got ya!”moment but it never came. When we went looking for answers, the best explanation seemed to be that it is deeply engrained in the culture to keep your space neat and tidy. Schoolchildren even take on the responsibility of cleaning the school and serving each other lunch!
Bourdain’s favorite place to eat: Anthony Bourdain once said of Tokyo “If I had to eat only in one city for the rest of my life, Tokyo would it”. We couldn’t agree more. From sushi to soba and everything in between, Tokyo is truly one of, if not the, best place to eat in the world. There are said to be nearly 150 THOUSAND restaurants in Tokyo. If you can’t eat well in Tokyo, you can’t eat well anywhere
Full spectrum of Japanese culture: Tokyo is a city where every aspect of Japanese culture from every point in Japanese history is on display. Temples, markets, manga, skyscrapers, sumo, samurai – the list goes on. We spent an incredibly active five days in Tokyo, and still feel we only scratched the surface on what the city has to offer
What we saw in Tokyo
Hibiya Gardens and Imperial Palace Grounds: We started our first full day in Tokyo by walking from our hotel to the Asakusa neighborhood. This began with a stroll through the Hibiya Gardens and Imperial Palace Grounds across from our hotel. For a city of nearly 40 million people and some of those most densely populated city streets in the world, Tokyo has its fair share of vast and beautiful green spaces as well. Walking through the gardens, palace grounds, and surrounding business district, we were surprised at how empty and quiet the city was on a Tuesday morning in May
Akihabara: After walking through the gardens and palace grounds we made our way to Akihabara, Tokyo’s electronics, manga, and video games district. It was the elder traveling smarts first taste of this side to Japanese culture. We walked up the main street and popped into a few of the multi-story department stores selling wrist watches, action figures, and everything in between. We also popped into the Akihbara Donki location (short for Don Quijote), Japan’s biggest discount retailer and the only major department chain where you can find cigarettes, motorcycle goods, bedding, and color contact lenses on the same floor
Asakusa and Senso-ji Temple: Asakusa was once Tokyo’s entertainment district filled with theaters and other nefarious activities before the neighborhood was leveled during World War II. Today, it revolves around the rebuilt 7th century buddhist temple Senso-ji, Tokyo’s oldest temple. It was packed when we arrived. We made our way through the large entry gate and up the charming shopping street lined with nicely refurbished traditional stalls selling Japanese souvenirs before reaching the shrine complex. As is tradition at Senso-ji, we made small offerings and drew sticks for our fortunes – some of our futures look brighter than others. The main hall of the shrine was ornate and beautiful (and also out of the hot sun!), and we politely joined the crowd in front as many local people prayed
Roppongi and Mori Art Museum: The Mori Art Museum is a contemporary art museum situated in the Roppongi Hills Tower that not only features a thought provoking rotation of exhibits but also incredible unencumbered 180 degree views of the city from the museum’s 53rd floor location. We first visited the museum in 2019 and saw an amazing exhibit featuring the work of Japanese artist Chiharu Shiota and decided to return with elder traveling smarts. The main exhibit this time around was “World Classroom: Contemporary Art through School Subjects”, which as the name suggests organized contemporary art pieces by school subjects such as math, social studies, and literature. Some of our favorite pieces included photographs of public execution sites in Damascus during peaceful and empty times of the day and a photograph series of Chinese activist artist Ai Weiwei dropping a 2000 year old urn from the Han Dynasty on the ground. Before leaving we walked the perimeter of the floor to ceiling windows to take in the views of Tokyo – they were just as amazing as in 2019!
Samurai experience with Yusuke: One of our favorite activities in Tokyo was a “day in the life of a Samurai” experience we found through Airbnb. Our guide, Yusuke, was an incredibly proud and gentle man who comes from a line of Samurai and himself is a trained teacher and performer. Yusuke began by dressing us all in traditional Kimonos and Hakamas before treating us to a traditional Matcha tea ceremony. Over tea, he taught us about the history of the Samurai and let us handle the 200+ year old katana he had inherited from his master. The highlight of the experience was learning how to handle a katana. We all practiced a basic routine inside before taking our “talents” outside to practice cutting through a rolled up and soaked tatami mat fixed to a post (Yusuke shared that the soaking helps the mat resemble human flesh 🙁 ). It was an incredible experience – John was the MVP and gracefully cut through the tatami mat with his katana. A 96-year old man and Yusuke’s neighbor came by to spectate and chimed in here and there with his many years of expertise
Harajuku: Harajuku is one of Tokyo’s hippest neighborhoods comprised of a network of streets lined with vintage and street clothing shops and trendy cafes. It was, at times, a little too much for the elder traveling smarts to handle. We did find the perfect boutique ceramics shop, Hakusan, where we purchased our plates for our future home. One man in the shop was filling a suitcase with various ceramics while we browsed the goods, telling us “I came here a few years ago and knew I had to return – get as much as you can now!”. Hopefully, this is a good sign for our new dinnerware!
Sumo at Ryogoku Stadium: We were lucky to be in Tokyo at the same time as one of three two-week sumo tournaments at Ryogoku Kokugikan each year. In a process similar to buying Lollapalooza tickets back in the early 2010’s, we eagerly refreshed the ticket page when they were released in April to secure good seats. We weren’t sure what to expect, but the whole experience was fascinating and exceeded expectations. We learned about all the ways the Shinto faith was tied to the sport, including how referees dress like Shinto priests, the roof hanging above the ring resembles a Shinto shrine, and how the wrestlers slap their bellies and throw salt to purify the ring and scare away evil spirits. The bouts were short and action-packed, including lots hands to the neck and face as the wrestlers “rushed at” each other. We were intrigued to see that many of the wrestlers come from Mongolia! This made sense to the younger traveling smarts after watching some Mongolian wrestling from a ger in the middle of the Gobi desert
Yomiuri Giants vs. Yokohama Baystars at Tokyo Dome: Our last big activity in Tokyo was attending a Nippon Professional Baseball league (the Japanese MLB equivalent) game inside the Tokyo Dome. The Yomiuri Giants are often referred to as the Yankees of Japanese baseball. The game was completely sold out when we looked at tickets, and we were resorted to nosebleed seats on the secondary market. Still our seats provided us with a view of the entire indoor stadium. Similar to our KBO experience in Seoul, we were enamored by the Japanese professional baseball spectating experience and how it differed from the MLB. The best examples included receiving a free Giants jersey upon entering the stadium (much better than a crappy bobblehead or towel for the first thousand fans in the US), the energy and organization of the crowd throughout the entire game, and the young Japanese women dressed like cheerleaders running around the stadium with full mini-kegs of beer on their backs to serve the fans
Kappabashi: Our last stop in Tokyo was Kappabashi, a famous shopping street lined with wholesale restaurant supply shops. We walked up and down the street popping into countless souvenir and kitchenware shops. When all said and done, the younger traveling smarts added bowls and a sake set to their kitchen, and the elder traveling smarts left with many gifts for home
Where we ate and drank
Shunju Tsugihagi: Shunji Tsugihagi was our hotel’s recommendation for a restaurant close by since the Elder Traveling Smarts were fighting sleep after a 12-hour flight and 14-hour time difference. It was a little hard to find in the basement of a nearby office building and it felt like a Japanese western wine bar geared towards male-dominated business groups. The food was nothing to write home about, but it was a cozy and private space to start catching up on our 8 months apart!
Izakaya on Hoppy Street: Hoppy Street is a narrow pedestrian street lined with cheap Izakayas named after the refreshing hoppy beverage commonly used as an Izakaya drink mixer. It was a short walk from Senso-ji making it the perfect stop for lunch after a full morning walking around Tokyo. We picked an Izakaya with clientele that leaned local and outdoor shaded seating and proceeded to feast on shared plates of yakisoba, flounder, and mentaiko
Food and (emphasis on the) drinking tour with Aki: We’ve had great success with street food tours around the world and thought it would be the perfect activity to share with the elder traveling smarts. We found a well-reviewed food and drinks tour through the less touristy Ueno neighborhood on Airbnb and decided to give it ago. Our guide was a funny, middle-aged Japanese man named Aki who spent time both in the US and Australia selling whiskey. There were a few oddities to this food tour that stuck out from the rest we had been on around the world – many of the spots along the tour were empty but for our group, locals were quite confused to see us at a few of the places that that were well attended, and our guide Aki had consumed as many drinks as the rest of the group (usually, the guide keeps their wits about them and refrains from indulging in their often twice daily tour). We met Aki and the rest of the group, a series of friendly and interesting couples from the US, in front of the Ueno subway station. We kicked off the tour with a shot of plum wine, which set the tone for a tour that would be focused more on the drinking than the food. The food “highlights” included a plate of various, mysterious pig parts at a popular local izakaya and a chicken ramen that was unique but a little too salty for our group. The best part of the tour was enjoying different drinks at each spot along the way (when all was said and done we had consumed plum wine, a hoppy mixed drink with shochu, sake, whiskey sour highballs, and beer) and chatting with Aki and our food tour companions
Shinjuku for Italian, udon, and a stroll through Golden Gai: The Shinjuku neighborhood is a great display of the hustle and bustle of Tokyo at night. We walked around the main streets and took in the crowds and sensory overload of the neon lit signage. We made two stops for dinner – one to sit outside at a standard Italian restaurant for those in the group that needed a break from Japanese fare, and one at a hole in the wall udon restaurant called Mentatsudan where the younger traveling smarts enjoyed some noodles mixed with egg and soy. We ended the evening with a stroll through the narrow corridors of Golden Gai to peer into the tiny bars that bring together locals and tourists from all over the world each night
Kyubey Ginza: The younger traveling smarts were not going to leave Japan without introducing the elder traveling smarts to an omakase sushi experience. Omakase translates to “I leave it up to you” in English, which perfectly sums up the experience of sitting at a counter while the sushi chef methodically prepares a tailored selection of the freshest sashimi and nigiri from the market that day. We were lucky to get a reservation at Kyubey in Ginza, a Tokyo institution that has been serving up the best sushi and producing the best sushi chefs since 1935. Our sushi chef for the evening, Sato, prepared an exciting menu that included 4 different preparations of tuna, scallop, the freshest horse mackerel that didn’t have a trace of “fishiness”, clam with a sweet soy glaze, and uni. The elder traveling smarts leaned into the meal despite having limited sushi eating experience at home and we all left with our bellies full and happy from the experience
Soba Kiri Mimaki: Thanks to several incredible soba experiences during our time in the Japanese Alps, soba noodles had quickly risen to the top as one our favorite dishes in the world. So, when we returned to Tokyo at the end of our trip with the elder traveling smarts we were determined to get in one more meal of soba before leaving Japan. Jessie, Carrie, and Doug found Soba Kiri Mimaki in the vibrant Akasaka neighborhood nearby our last accommodation to enjoy a late afternoon soba feast. The restaurant felt refreshing and hip while maintaining the traditional Japanese restaurant elements (narrow, counter-focused, etc.) and we all thoroughly enjoyed our various preparations of soba – soba with cold dipping broth for Doug, kakesoba with tempura for Jessie, and soba with yams and egg for Carrie
Afuri Harajuku: We celebrated our successful purchase and shipment of our new Hakusan plates by eating delicious bowls of ramen at Afuri. We had been to this popular ramen chain in 2019 and it was so good we decided to return again this time around. Doug had their signature ramen with pork, Jessie had vegan ramen with an egg and bamboo shoots and we washed it all down with two well-deserved beers. Another successful visit!
Kurita Sushi: After the elder traveling smarts departed back for the states, the younger traveling smarts decided to try to fit in one more omakase sushi experience. We researched potential options near our final accommodation and found Kurita Sushi, an unassuming hole in the wall sushi restaurant that offered an omakase meal for as low as $30 a person. It was almost too good to be true. But, it wasn’t! We felt incredibly lucky to have found this gem. The chef opened his spot and charged the prices he did because he wanted the highest quality sushi to be more accessible. The fish was amazing – we particularly enjoyed the salmon, horse mackerel, and uni. The atmosphere was much more laid back than Ginza, and the chef treated us to sake and additional bites on the house (he also indulged in both). We befriended the man sitting next to us, a BCG Tokyo partner, who was in shock that we found his local go-to sushi restaurant
Where we stayed
The Imperial: The Imperial Hotel was the perfect place to call home for our first 4 nights in Tokyo. It is situated near, but not in, the happening Ginza neighborhood and right across from both a central subway line and the quiet and peaceful Hibiya park. The hotel itself delivers beautifully on its traditional and luxurious appeal from the lobby and staff all the way through to the rooms. We must also mention the American breakfast offering in the lobby, the Parkside Diner, that thanks to Jessie’s status with Chase provided us with a top notch western breakfast to start each day
The Prince Gallery: The Prince Gallery was one of, if not the, nicest hotels we stayed at during our 10 months of traveling around Asia. Whereas The Imperial leaned on history and tradition, the Prince Gallery leaned on views and modernity. Situated on the top 7 floors of a skyscraper building, you are always looking at a jaw-dropping, unencumbered view of the city. The views are in every room, the lobby bar, the swimming pool, fitness area, and locker rooms. The rooms themselves all have top of the line furnishings. Staying here was a real treat!
Landabout Hotel: We needed a budget hotel option for a night after the elder traveling smarts returned for the states and before we set off for Oman. The Landabout Hotel, though in a neighborhood less traveled, served this purpose well. It was a hip, no frills budget room. Most importantly, it’s location introduced us to Kurita Sushi 🙂