Bangkok, Thailand
Biking around Thonburi
Our impressions of Bangkok
Friendly and full of smiles: The nickname “The Land of Smiles” certainly rings true in Bangkok. Everyone we interacted with, even if in passing on a busy street, met us with a smile. It really puts you in a good mood and makes just walking around the city an inviting experience. When interactions were more substantive than a smile while walking by, we found the people to be incredibly friendly and engaging as well (even with language barriers).
Michelin star quality food – from the street to fine dining kitchens: This is not just a figure of speech – Bangkok is home to one of two Michelin star street food stalls in the world and over 30 other fine dining Michelin star restaurants. We had the privilege of dining at both ends of the Michelin spectrum and each experience was incredible in its own right. Outside of formal Michelin-stamped restaurants, we also had some of the best food on our travels to date both on the street and in hip restaurants around the city.
Something for everyone: Bangkok is incredibly diverse in what it offers to travelers and residents alike. Whether you’re looking for temples, markets, and street food stalls, or skyscrapers, hip bars, and restaurants, you can find it all here.
Before getting into the details we must give a shoutout to Mimi, who joined us on our travels through Bangkok and embraced every adventure, twist, and turn. We did not compromise our plans at all and treated this location and its activities as we would any other. Mimi, you are an inspiration!
What we saw in Bangkok
Bike Tour around Thonburi: This was the perfect activity to welcome us to Bangkok and Thailand after a month in India where any sort of biking activity in a major city would have been unthinkable. Our biking crew consisting of two other American travelers quickly set off in a line behind our guide, Prayuth, zig-zagging the narrow streets and canals past local homes, food vendors, and schools. It was a bit like a game of telephone where Prayuth would shout out points of interest and upcoming maneuvers (e.g. “that’s a Chinese mask shop!” or “sharp turn left!”), and the first in line behind Prayuth would pass along the message to the rest of the group sometimes getting lost in translation. Prayuth, a funny and friendly Thai man in his 20s, seemed to know everyone we passed in the neighborhood. We mainly rode through the less touristy Thonburi neighborhood, which was the capital of the kingdom in the 1700s before the first King Rama moved the capital across the river to the heart of modern Bangkok. Outside of watching everyday life unfold along the alleyways, the highlights included visiting various temples and the newly constructed giant golden Buddha outside Wat Paknam Bhasicharoen (Prayuth tells us its primary goal is to attract tourism to the less traveled but historic neighborhood). Luckily for us, this would not be our last biking activity in Thailand.
Jay Fai: One of two Michelin star street food stalls in the world, Jay Fai is somewhat of a legend made even more famous by its feature in the Netflix series “Street Food Asia”. We include this in the “what we saw” section of our post, because this was more than just a meal at a restaurant, this was an experience. 73 year-old head chef and owner Supinya Junsuta stands over a wok hissing up charcoal fueled flames, dressed in her iconic protection goggles and camo t-shirt, for 12 hours a day touching every single dish served by the restaurant. We weren’t originally planning on eating here given what’s involved to get a table, but quickly realized it was a 5-minute walk down the street from our hotel so figured “why not?”. Jessie and Doug made their way over at 6:30am one morning to join the queue and (hopefully) secure an early table. Luckily, we were 7th and 8th in line which meant we not only secured plastic chairs for the 2-hour wait to put our names in but also ended up in the first round of seatings. Promptly at 8:15am, the seating list opened and the line moved through to put names in. By the end of the morning queue, the restaurant was completely booked up for the day. Aspiring patrons who showed up late and disappointed were at least rewarded with the consolation prize of watching Supinya in action on the street corner. We summoned Mimi for the 9:00am seating and were up front and center when our table was called. The three of us had a blast sitting in the unassuming Michelin star restaurant, sipping on fresh iced tea and orange juices and watching Supinya work on the first round of orders. The food did in fact live up to the hype and wait, and was spectacular – we all split the famous crab meat omelette (filled with a portion of fresh lump crab meat unfathomable to US proprietors), sour spicy dry tom yum noodles, and drunken noodles. A highlight of our time in Thailand if you were to ask any of us 🙂
House of Taste Cooking Class: The three of us have always enjoyed carrying out from our favorite Thai restaurant in Colorado (shout out, Phat Thai) and cooking together, so it was only appropriate that we take a cooking class in Bangkok. House of Taste did not disappoint – our voracious chef de cuisine, Pim, taught us all about the key ingredients in Thai cooking (lemongrass, galangal, Thai garlic, and birds eye chilis) and had us in laughing fits throughout the experience. We made our way seamlessly through a menu of staple dishes like tom yung ga (spicy coconut and lemongrass soup with shrimp), pad Thai, and massaman curry with chicken – all some of the best we had in Thailand! Needless to stay we were totally stuffed after a morning feast at Jay Fai and afternoon multi-course meal at House of Taste. Our ambitious plan to walk back to the hotel only lasted to the end of the alley when we decided to hop in a cab.
Tuk Tuk Street Food Tour with Ai: Bangkok is a street food city, so we were excited to continue our eating adventures with a street food tour by Tuk Tuk (because, why not?). We met our guide, Ai, along with a family from Singapore that would round out our group for the day. Ai was one of the most friendly, positive, and energetic tour guides we’ve had on our travels, and we felt at ease navigating the busy market and chinatown streets with her as our leader. Ai had arranged a personal Tuk Tuk for the day for the three of us, driven by a woman named Sa whose mother was in charge of the three Tuk Tuks on our tour (a real Tuk Tuk mafia). We loved eating and riding our way around the city – the highlights included:
- Trok Mor Morning Market: Our first food-oriented stop was a morning market typically frequented by the government employees that worked nearby. One of our favorite stops on the tour, we spent our time here sampling delicious local street foods and walking up the main pedestrian street stopping at each stall to learn about different produce and dishes from Ai. Some of our favorites included spicy fried fish on a stick with pickled cucumber, a pancake made of fried prawns with hot honey, khanom khrok (coconut-rice pancakes topped with various fixings like young coconut and scallion), kanom jeen nam ya (a special red curry soup with chicken and fish balls only served on Saturdays and Sundays until its gone), and fresh jackfruit
- Pad Thai Fai Ta Lu: This stop included dinner and a show – before indulging in the namesake dish we got to watch the chef in action from the window preparing it fresh. It was fun to see each element of the dish added to the wok before the chef ignited the wok with a great ball of fire. The pad thai tasted delicious when we finally got to enjoy the fruits of his labor
- Wat Bowon Niwet Ratchaworawihan: We needed to give our stomachs a half-time break, so we rode over to one of the more beautiful temples in Bangkok. With the help of Ai, we participated in the typical Thai Buddhist religious customs which included a lotus flower, incense (which left a burn mark on both Jessie and Mimi), and candle offering before entering the temple and admiring the magnificent golden Buddha inside
- Chinatown: Our eating adventures ended in the bustling Bangkok Chinatown area, which is one of the most vibrant in the world. The streets here are lined with markets, street food vendors, and gold shops. Ai explained that many Thai people put their savings into gold jewelry instead of a bank or investment account – the queues at these shops were down the street when we walked by. We came here for the street food though, which is some of the best in Bangkok. The highlights included a delicious (and supposedly famous) bowl of Chinese pepper pork belly soup (Doug liked this better than Mimi) and the best mango sticky rice we had while in Thailand (which is a serious accolade here)
Where we ate and drank
Random BKK Airport Food Court: We arrived in Bangkok at an awkward meal time – waiting until we got into the city would be too close to our dinner reservation and we hadn’t had something meaningful to eat all day. We saw 7-11 glowing from the lower arrivals level and decided we would cancel our rideshare and go check out what the snacking options were (to our defense, the 7-11 snack selection abroad is typically awesome). On the way down, we spotted what looked like a food court of local stalls. We exchanged some Baht for the common food court currency tickets and surveyed the options. It was surprisingly very cheap and delicious. Doug indulged in a plate of spicy fried basil noodles with minced pork and Jessie our first of many shrimp pad thais.
Ching Fish Balls: After our bike tour, we were craving our first bowl of noodles in Thailand. We set out on foot to Chinatown from Thonburi, and it wasn’t long before we stumbled on a corner noodle shop that drew our attention. We stopped in for a quick bowl of delicious spicy fish ball noodle soup – mission accomplished.
Mikkeller: Mikkeller is a hip and playful Danish craft brewery that operates taprooms in a few select cities around the world. Doug had been to their San Francisco location back in 2018 and was determined to visit the Bangkok location once it popped up in research. It is tucked away on a residential street in a nicer part of town and was the perfect craft beer oasis to spend a few hours sipping, nibbling, and trip planning. We sat on comfy bean bag chairs on the lawn while enjoying some legit hazy IPAs and fresh cut fries (they were so good we put in another order). Craft beer craving satiated 🙂
Sri Trat: Sri Trat is an upscale and hip eastern Thai restaurant that honors the recipes of the owner’s mother (an artsy mural of her is also painted on one of the walls). With the help of our awesome waitress, we ordered and enjoyed one of our favorite meals in Thailand (and one we may not have ordered on our own), including a spicy sweet salad with barracuda and spicy red curry with crab
Brick Bar: We heard live music after walking out of a bathroom inside a mall complex off Khaosan road, the infamous tourist party destination, so decided to pop in and check it out. This live music venue and bar turned out to be awesome! We ordered a couple of Chang beers and sat at a picnic style table alongside groups of college-aged Thai people rocking out to the music. As big fans of live music back home, we thought it was very, very good (despite not being able to understand anything)
Thipsamai: Famous for their pad thai and a short walk up the street from our hotel, Thipsamai was the perfect spot for Mimi’s first meal in Thailand after quite a day of travel. We carried out from the takeaway window and enjoyed a few shrimp pad thais back at the hotel – nothing to write home about but delicious nonetheless
Supanniga Eating Room (Tha Tien): Supanniga is another upscale and hip Thai restaurant situated right on the Chao Phraya River overlooking the famous Wat Arun Ratchawararam Ratchawaramahawihan temple. We had an amazing view of both the river and temple as we feasted on quite a spread of delicious Thai staples, including red curry with crab, tom yum soup, massaman curry with chicken (Mimi and Doug’s favorite), and shrimp salad. No meal in Thailand is complete without mango sticky rice, so we finished by indulging in some. The mango in Thailand never fails to disappoint
Mother Roaster: In need of a caffeine pick me up, Doug and Jessie made their way over to a hip coffee shop near the hotel (a common theme – the hotel is well located for good eats and coffee). After walking in, we quickly realized this was not a coffee-for-sustenance type of place. We talked with the owner, an older Thai woman, about the flavor profiles of the different beans they sourced from Thailand and around the world before landing on two local coffees to try. We watched as she hand-pressed one for an espresso (a serious workout) and patiently prepared the other by pour over
Gaa: Our other Michelin star eating experience in Bangkok was at Gaa, an innovative tasting menu restaurant highlighting Indian flavors and dishes using local Thai ingredients. It could not have been more different from our Michelin meal at Jay Fai but was an amazing experience in its own right. It was situated in a beautiful old traditional Thai home in the heart of the modern city center. The flavors and presentation of each dish were outstanding, leaving us in awe and dominating our conversation from start to finish. Having just left India, Doug and Jessie were impressed by how reminiscent the flavors were of staple dishes they had tried there with the creative twist you’d expect of a restaurant with this concept. The highlights included oysters prepared with various chaat fixings, uni chili toast, keema pav (lamb for Mimi and Doug, jackfruit for Jessie) with various accoutrements, and a soft and creamy preparation of the notorious durian fruit accompanied by tandoori bread, chutneys and pickled vegetables. It was a meal that we’ll never forget
Where we stayed
Villa de Pranakorn Hotel: Situated near Bangkok’s Old Town across from a lovely park, Villa de Pranakorn served as the perfect home base for our Bangkok adventures. It ended up being a short walk from the famous Jay Fai, Chinatown neighborhood, and metro stop meeting point for our Tuk Tuk street food tour. The thing that stood out to us most about this accommodation was the staff – they were incredibly friendly throughout the duration of our stay. They also continually surprised us with little gestures of kindness, like leaving a Christmas stocking filled with a gift on our hotel room door on Christmas Day and helping us cross the busy street to get to the hotel every time we arrived back from our excursions