Northern Thailand
Royal Agricultural Station near Doi Anghkan
The lowdown
We had a few flexible days after Mimi left Chiang Mai to go back to the US and before our beach “vacation from traveling” down south in Krabi. We had also been eager to finally put our international driving permits to use after securing them from AAA in the US before our trip. Luckily, our friend Zandy, that we met in our Bukhara guesthouse and spent time with in Almaty, put together an awesome off the beaten path road trip itinerary through northern Thailand (linked here).
Using Zandy’s itinerary and tips as our guide, we rented an automatic Toyota Vios and set off on a four-day road trip adventure around northern Thailand. Our stops included Chiang Dao (home to some epic caves and temples), Arunothai (a Yunnanese town on the border with Myanmar), Doi Angkhan (a popular mountain camping destination for local people), and Chiang Rai (a hip and bustling city in the far north). It was a bit strange adjusting to driving on the left side of the road (a first for Doug), but after some thoughtful turns and co-pilot support from Jessie we were cruising on the highway headed north. It is also worth mentioning that the driving conditions in Thailand are quite pleasant – well-paved roads, limited motorbikes, and people only ever honk in extreme circumstances (the opposite of India).
It was an amazing few days filled with twists and turns (literally and figuratively) and great way to explore what the north of Thailand has to offer!
Day 1: Exploring Chiang Dao
We arrived in Chiang Dao, our first stop, in less than an hour and a half, but the beautiful mountainous landscapes and sparse accommodations would lead you to believe we were much further from Chiang Mai. It was a beautiful and sunny late afternoon, so we decided to take advantage of the light and head immediately to the Chiang Dao caves.
Our first cave excursion of the trip, the natural cave complex in Chiang Dao is actually primarily a place for local people to come pray at the temples inside. As a tourist, you can either explore freely the smaller well lit area most people frequent for religious purposes or opt for a guided tour by kerosene lantern of the vast, dark chambers and crawl spaces. We were on an adventure and wanted to take full advantage, so opted for the guided tour by kerosene lamp.
Our guide was a woman from one of the nearby villages who did not speak much English, but was very friendly nonetheless. Kerosene lantern in tow, she led us up the narrow staircase from the well lit area into the darkness of the caves. We enjoyed making our way through the various chambers of the cave complex, our guide’s lantern the only source of light exposing the amazing stalactite structures emerging from the walls like candle wax. On occasion, she would explain how various stalactite structures and rocks resembled animals or how a wrong turn in the direction she was pointing would lead to certain serious injury were we to have explored on our own. We also enjoyed seeing some of the religious components of the complex like a reclining Buddha deep inside one of the various chambers.
After our cave excursion, we checked into our nearby accommodation for the evening, Nest 1, a cozy collection of bungalows nestled into the base of the mountains. It was the perfect place to stay for our evening in Chiang Dao. We still had some time before dinner, so dropped our things and made our way to a famous temple, Wat Than Pa Plong, only a few minute drive from Nest 1.
Wat Than Pa Plong is a beautiful mountainside Buddhist temple and monastery situated at the top of a 500 stone step climb. At the base, we saw several sign postings and pictures bewaring patrons of two so-called “savage dogs”. Luckily, we did not see them on the way up, and really enjoyed the peaceful climb and surrounding views of the mountains and temple. The temple itself was built into the mountain and very beautiful, and there was a man meditating inside when we reached the main hall. We’re not proud of it, but on the way down we saw one of the savage dogs pictured in the path ahead and waited for the pious man we saw in the temple to walk down before using him as a bit of a human shield from the dog.
Nest 1 is known for its farm-to-table European restaurant; however, it’s closed on Tuesdays when the chef goes to the market for the day (the day we happened to be there). We found an Italian restaurant, Jin’s, just up the road and decided to give it a try. When we arrived, a friendly older British gentleman named John, who is the proprietor’s gardener and helps out when the restaurant is busy, warned us they were running about an hour behind on orders. We said we didn’t mind the wait and enjoyed an extended meal consisting of a margherita pizza, Greek salad, and amatriciana pasta (Doug’s favorite from his time abroad) in the restaurant’s garden.
Day 2: Quick stop in Arunothai and camping in Doi Angkhan
After enjoying a delicious French press coffee and the surrounding views of mountains in the Nest 1 dining area we were back the road headed north. Our first stop of the day was Arunothai, a Yunnanese village on the Myanmar border founded by Chinese Nationalist Party soldiers fleeing China after the revolution. Outside of being situated in a naturally beautiful place, the distinctively Chinese nature of the town made eating and walking around an interesting and awesome experience. We spent a few hours here dining on Yunnanese food and exploring the small village. This included a feast of delicious gyoza, shrimp and pork dumplings, and yunnanese noodles (crispy pork for Doug and veggies for Jessie) at Tayong Yunnan noodle restaurant, visiting the Buddhist temple right on the border, and enjoying a thai iced coffee at a hip coffee shop situated on the main lake in town.
Our original plan was to drive straight from Arunothai village to the Doi Angkhan campsite. We always knew it was going to be a treacherously steep and curvy drive to reach the campsite at the top of the mountain; however, after doing some additional research over lunch we were increasingly concerned that the car we rented would not have the power to get to the top. Tripadvisor forums were giving us mixed messages – one person posted that their car only made it 70% of the way before giving out, another suggested turning off the air conditioning to supply an extra boost of power, a third suggested manual shifting would do the trick. We decided the safest bet would be to drive to nearby Fang to see if we could catch a reliable ride to the campsite.
We made the still steep, beautiful drive through the mountains to Fang and popped into a random hotel to see if the receptionist could help us get to the Doi Angkhan campsite. Luckily, the receptionist pointed us in the direction of a temple nearby where the local truck shuttles base themselves. A short drive to the temple and we were pumped to see the lot of shuttle trucks outside. With the help of a mysterious english-speaking woman on the other end of one of the driver’s cellphones, we were able to align on the logistics of getting to and from the campsite. We left our car in the temple lot, hopped on the flatbread of the truck, took our seats along the side benches, and were on our way. Driving to the campsite, we were relieved at our decision to take a shuttle as we puttered up and around the incredibly steep and nasty hairpin turns.
The campsite is situated at the base of Doi Angkhan mountain amidst the pine trees overlooking the valley. When we arrived, the campsite was full of local thai families and friends (we got some looks as the only tourists around) already set up in their tents and enjoying the late afternoon. With the help of our driver, we rented the full camping set-up from the national park employees (tent, mats, sleeping bags, blankets, pillows) and prepared our pre-set tent for the evening.
After our sleeping situation was secured and set up, we made the very short walk up the road to the trailhead for the hike up Doi Angkhan mountain. It was a relatively quick (no more than 45 minutes) and steep hike to the top, and as the sun was starting to set over the valley we were in awe of the spectacular 360 degree views. The best part was the fact that we had the whole mountain to ourselves! Even though the campsite was situated next door to the hike, no one bothered to make the trip (we had heard from Zandy that this was the case, but were still surprised when we experienced it first hand). Taking in the sunset views from Doi Angkhan mountain was one of the highlights of the trip!
After a delicious dinner from a local campsite food stall who kindly prepared a vegetarian meal for Jessie, we were ready for bed. We enjoyed the change of scenery cozying up in our sleeping bags, and the sound of everyone enjoying the campsite helped put us into an early slumber.
Day 3: Touring Doi Angkhan and Chiang Rai
The pleasant campsite noises of kids playing and charcoal grills at work that put us to sleep were soon replaced by a cacophony of snoring from neighboring tents. We were in and out of sleep throughout the night as a result but were also up with more than enough time to enjoy the sunrise. We stood on the lookout platform and watched over the valley as the sky turned from black, to dark purple, to an ever evolving mix of beautiful shades of light blue, orange and red from the sunrise.
While enjoying a post sunrise coffee and fresh strawberries sold by a local family at the campsite, we happened upon our truck shuttle driver. He was accompanied by a woman from Chiang Mai who spoke great English and told us she would be joining us on a tour of different sites around Doi Angkhan for the morning. We still do not exactly know how everything came together (we think she was planning on exploring anyway and was piggybacking on our taxi fare while helping him to translate), but we’re glad it worked out the way it did and made for an amazing morning.
We started this pseudo tour by visiting the royal agriculture station nearby, a beautiful and sprawling property filled with flower, plant, fruit and vegetable farms. It is part of the royal project, a royal family sponsored effort to replace hill tribe opioid farming with other less harmful agricultural products. We enjoyed walking around the different parts of the property and taking in the surrounding views of the mountains, especially the beautiful flowers, cherry blossoms, and vegetable garden filled with every colorful and delicious vegetable under the sun.
Next, we stopped at a nearby tea farm. We started by partaking in a free tea tasting with our new friend from Chiang Mai and enjoyed some of the most delicious homemade scones with fresh strawberry jam. After learning a bit about the tea, we set off on foot to explore the surrounding tea fields. It was very beautiful – the rows of tea plants all stepped on the mountainside overlooking the valley.
After the tea fields, we were off towards the Myanmar border. We drove past a stretch of roadside market stands and strawberry fields before pulling over to the side of the road. We weren’t sure exactly what we were looking at, but a nice Thai woman next to us pointed to one side of the road and said “that’s Myanmar!”. It looked like beautiful and unpopulated land but for a small military post at the top of mountain across from us. The real highlight, however, was the strawberry fields stepped on the hillside and glistening in the sun. Like the tea fields, we enjoyed walking through the strawberry plants and taking in the views.
Our last stop was the official Thai border post with Myanmar at Ban Nor Lae. Unlike the border across from the strawberry fields, this was much more official and militaristic. We walked up to a small post behind sand bunkers and looked across the way at the official Myanmar border post – the two posts joined by a single stone path like a suspension bridge through the forest. A bit unsettling given the bunkered nature of the post and the horrific things we’ve heard are happening in Myanmar, but still interesting to see.
We rode back down to the temple parking lot, making one last stop at an orange farm, and said our final farewells to our driver and translator friend from Chiang Mai (they also gave us some fresh strawberries they had purchased as a parting gift… so nice!!). We hopped in our car and were back on our way to our next and final destination – Chiang Rai.
One of the main attractions just outside Chiang Rai is Wat Rong Khun (aka the “White Temple”), which is actually a privately owned art exhibit in the style of a Buddhist temple. The whole place, constructed only as of 1997, felt very gimmicky and touristy. We both agreed the site and experience resembled something found in Disneyworld. For starters, the layout is conducive to getting people in and through the temple and gift shop as efficiently as possible (what other temple has turnstiles and a gift shop?). All of that aside (it is an art exhibit and not an actual temple after all), we did enjoy making our way through the site, admiring the magnificent white structure with mirror inlays and strange pop culture elements throughout (like the sea of arms and hands grasping from the ground around the staircase entry).
The White Temple quickly checked off the list, we made our way into Chiang Rai and checked into our accommodation for the night. We stayed at Tongsiam, a cozy and minimalist hotel that caters to Chinese tourists. It was situated next to a market in the heart of the city and a great place to spend our one night in the small but bustling city.
Unfortunately, Jessie had started to develop a full-body rash early that morning and it had only gotten worse as the day wore on (even after we stopped for some antihistamines). We decided it would be better safe than sorry to get it checked out, and through our insurance provider were able to get into a hospital nearby. We were incredibly impressed when we arrived at the Bankok Hospital to get Jessie help. It felt more like a fancy hotel than a hospital, as a bellhop of sorts met us at the car door and took us inside to get checked in. The facilities were super modern, bright, and clean, and we got in and out relatively quickly with a bag full of medicine for ~$80.
Day 4: Back home to Chiang Mai
After a full nights sleep, Jessie’s rash was still present but responding to the medicine. We grabbed a quick coffee from the Nescafé in the base of the Tongsiam hotel (the hotel reception also operated the cafe, which we thought was a clever business model), loaded up the car, and hit the road back towards Chiang Mai. We made it back to the Chiang Mai airport rental car lot in one piece (but for a skin rash) and without any dinks on the car – road trip success! We rewarded ourselves by enjoying two unexpectedly extraordinary Oreo blizzards from the Chiang Mai airport Dairy Queen.
It was an awesome and action-packed few days on the road, and we would not have spent it any other way (even the hospital was a highlight!). Shoutout to our friend Zandy for giving us an amazing itinerary and set of experiences to work with. It is truly an awesome part of the country that has more to offer than just the spectacular mountain landscapes.