Almaty, Kazakhstan
Skyline view from Hotel Kazakhstan
Our impressions of Almaty
Unexpectedly cosmopolitan: While Almaty certainly has some similarities to other Central Asian cities (e.g., Soviet architecture, interesting memorials, central bazar), it felt much more like a modern city than Tashkent or Dushanbe. There were tons of high caliber restaurants, endless evening activities (hockey, ballet, bars), street art and shops all around. It was a breath of fresh air after a few weeks in Central Asia
Great cafe culture: We’re hard pressed to think of a city with better cafe culture than Almaty – there was at least one hip cafe on every block. We spent a lot of time cafe hopping and loved the coffee and the food at the spots we tried out
Naturally beautiful: Almaty is full of parks and tree-lined pedestrian streets and encircled by the snow-capped Tian Shan mountains making it an incredibly beautiful city. Hiking and skiing are both very accessible from Almaty – not dissimilar from Denver (but don’t worry we’re not moving to Almaty any time soon). It didn’t hurt that we were experiencing this tree-lined city in the heart of fall
What we saw in Almaty
Zenkov’s Cathedral: Zenkov’s was the first and last cathedral we saw in Central Asia (mosques are much more common). The outside of the cathedral is bright yellow with whimsically patterned domes, while the inside is opulent with stained glass windows, a gold altar, and traditional Russian orthodox art (think narrow-faced stern-looking religious figures)
Panfilov park: Panfilov park is home to Zenkov’s cathedral and several war memorials. It was a lovely park to stroll through particularly with the changing trees
Central mosque: We’ve seen countless mosques in Tajikistan and Uzbekistan, so we were interested to see a Kazakh mosque. The central mosque has a much more modern feel with its gold minarets and marble exterior. We didn’t go inside, but did meet a very friendly endoscopist outside that was eager to practice his English and hear about our impressions of Kazakhstan
National science academy: We decided to take a break from traditional Central Asian museums and opted to check out the national museum of science (which was really like four different museums in one building). We didn’t ever find the ticket office, but had a blast wandering the grand halls and happening upon different displays of Soviet art and architecture
Big Almaty Lake: This natural reservoir in the Tian Shan Mountains and Ile-Alatau national park provided a true “wow” moment for us. The water was a deep teal color reminiscent of Glacier Freeze Gatorade and was beautifully situated in the freshly snowcapped mountains (it had snowed the night before). It also wasn’t crowded as the access road was closed to non-essential traffic due to construction, requiring most people to walk the 5+ miles uphill if they wanted to see it. We don’t know how but our tour guide was thankfully able to coordinate a ride for us
Eagle show: As a bonus of sorts to the Big Almaty Lake tour, we also got to see this traditional Owl/Eagle/Falcon show in the Ile-Alatau National Park. The trainer was a hilarious Kazakh showman dressed in traditional garb and with a thick accent. He had the routine down to a “T” and knew how to engage the crowd. He was accompanied by a young woman, also dressed in traditional garb, who fetched the birds and rode around on horseback. It was neat to see these beautiful birds up close and in action and the rest of the show gave us a laugh
Green bozor: We ended up back at this 100+ year old farmers market multiple times. It was a great lunch stop for us (and Jessie in particular) the first time around, as we loaded up on fresh bread, cheese, and local apples (a must in Kazakstan) before picnicking on a nearby bench. We enjoyed it so much that we went back to pick up fresh bread, cheese, and vegetables for a homemade panini dinner, and also stopped across the street at LOTTE Rakhat Candy Factory for some delicious chocolatey desserts
Kok Tobe: We paid a somewhat hefty sum to take a gondola up to this mountain recreation area. The highlights included views of the city (though the haze obscured the view on the day we visited), miscellaneous carnival activities, a bench dedicated to the Beatles (our favorite attraction), and an exotic birds and animals zoo that didn’t quite sit well with us. If we were traveling with a young toddler this may have been a better stop, but we weren’t. We wouldn’t recommend this if you have limited time in Almaty, unless you have a young toddler, then maybe (but then again we don’t have and have never had a young toddler so why trust us :))
Ballet: Post-Soviet cities are known for their lavish opera and ballet theaters and seeing a performance was high on our list before leaving Central Asia. Luckily, there was a ballet while we were in town and at less than $10 a ticket it was a no brainer. It was a great experience – the show itself was interesting and we really enjoyed watching one talented ballerina (despite our lack of ballet knowledge, we could tell she was on a different level than the rest). We found it interesting that the crowd sustained the same level of clapping at the end for all performers, despite a clear delineation in bows between the stars and the others (a relic of soviet times?)
Hockey game: We were itching to catch some sort of sporting event ever since we stepped foot in Central Asia. It seemed particularly fitting for Doug that the HC Almaty hockey team was in town for a few home games while we were in Almaty. We got a little lost when we arrived at Halyk Arena and made our way in through an unattended staff entrance. We were impressed at how new and nice the arena was. When we found the entrance and asked the staff for help finding our seats, they simply replied “just go in and find any seat you want” (how great is that??). It was a competitive game despite their opponent, Saryarka, being the better team. The result was a 2-1 nail-biting loss for HC Almaty and great night of hockey for Jessie & Doug
Kazakh hospital: Doug had been experiencing some travelers gastro issues for a few days and decided to take some Cipro to try to put it to rest. About 10 minutes after ingesting the first dose, Doug’s lips and eyes began to itch and swell… tell-tale signs of an allergic reaction. Jessie swiftly and effectively navigated getting us to the nearest emergency room for treatment, using Google Translate to communicate with the staff (no one spoke English). An hour and a half, a steroid injection in the butt, three antihistamine drips, and $16 USD later, we were leaving the hospital in better shape and spirits (this would have cost a lot more money and time in the US). No more Cipro for Doug!
Arasan baths: Completed in 1982 on the orders of the First Secretary of the Communist Party of Kazakstan, the Arasan bath complex is the largest in Central Asia. We spent two hours inside this complex, Jessie getting a traditional massage (read: no frills or pleasantries) and Doug exploring the Finnish sauna, Russian banya, and Moroccan hammam (all in separate but symmetrical facilities for men and woman). The facilities were beautifully designed and very clean. We left feeling relaxed and recharged. Arasan baths are a must if you find yourself in Almaty and one of our favorite things we did
Almaty airport: A lot left to be desired here… we were hoping to take advantage of the Priority Pass lounge in the international terminal (thank you, Chase Sapphire). It seemed brand new and clean, but there was no easily accessible WiFi and the food was a frustratingly inflexible “dinner set” from a cafe outside the lounge itself. Jessie did make the most out of it by using our remaining Tenge to buy some eccentric souvenirs and goodies from the few shops outside the lounge
Where we ate and drank
Bao Noodles: We were excited to be in a city with more diverse food options and eager to try some of them out. Our first (but not last) meal at Bao Noodles, a hip pan Asian fast casual sit down restaurant, was delicious and refreshing. We feasted on some of our favorites from back home, including Taiwanese cucumbers, a shrimp bao, salmon poke bowl, and shrimp pad thai
Cafe Nedelka: One of many cafes we posted up in while in Almaty, Nedelka (particularly the one on Shevchenko Street) had all of the fixings of a hip, cozy NYC cafe – exposed brick walls featuring local art, Brazilian Coffee sacks repurposed as window shades, and a delicious cappuccino. We took refuge here for a few hours on a rainy, cold evening with our friend Zandy
Korean Family restaurant: After a full day of exploring Almaty with our friend Zandy, we decided we were all in the mood for a Korean dinner. We did some quick research on Korean options in Almaty and landed on Korean Family. It was a traditional and lavish Korean dining experience, full of banchan and bibimbap. It was on the pricier side, but a delicious meal and great company
Red dragon noodles: We were running late for our Big Almaty Lake tour and needed to squeeze in a quick lunch. This pan-asian food truck gave us what we needed. The woman working the truck did not speak English, but luckily another woman in line helped us put in our order. We scarfed down our slightly soupy asian noodles and bao on the curb next to the food truck before rushing to meet our Big Almaty Lake tour group nearby
Ramen 77: We walked by Ramen 77 the night before on our way to Korean Family and committed to returning for dinner after it caught our eye. We’re glad we did – this was one of our favorite restaurants to date. It was very casual and hip inside with purple neon signs in Japanese and playful Japanese prints on the walls. The highlight was the food and drinks – we enjoyed delicious bowls of ramen accompanied by some refreshingly cold rice beers
Utepia: Similar to Ramen 77, we remembered walking by a bubble tea spot a previous night and decided that it would be the perfect nightcap post ramen. After walking in circles for a bit, we finally found it. Continuing the trend of hip establishments in Almaty, Utepia’s light fixtures were affixed to colorful umbrellas hanging from the ceiling. We picked up some bubble teas and mochi for the walk home
McDonald’s: One of Doug’s favorite meals back home is a burger and fries, so when we finally got to a city with a McDonald’s he decided he wanted to take advantage. There were not many local offerings exclusive to Kazakstan, so we mostly stuck to the originals (though Jessie tried some cottage cheese pancakes which were surprisingly good)
Hopers: Situated next to our Airbnb, Hopers was the first place we came across in Central Asia that offered an alternative to the one or two light domestic beers typically available in each country. We sat down and enjoyed a very good IPA and mango sour beer over a few games of cards to start our evening
Agora wine bar: We decided we wanted a nicer, fun meal to kick off our night at the ballet. Agora, conveniently located across the street from the National Opera and Ballet Theatre where many high end stores and restaurants reside, is a hip wine bar and shop. Its walls are lined with fun bottles that we perused while looking at the food menu. We sat along the window, picked out a bottle of natural wine from Spain (we’re big fans of natural wine), and dined on some yummy bruschetta, cheeses and mussels. It was delicious even though we cursed the wine the next day
Zhenka’s doner: Doug was hungry for some late night eats after the ballet (likely influenced by the wine at dinner), and Zhenka’s doner seemed like the perfect candidate. It was a fun, late night diner type feel inside. The doner was good, but may have been what sparked the gastro issues for Doug that led to the hospital visit
Big apple cafe: High on many lists for cafes in Almaty, we spent a few hours at Big Apple “being productive”. The highlight here was definitely the Pinsa, which is similar to a Margherita pizza but more crispy and airy. Doug had an ice coffee that also could have been the culprit for his stomach problems. We’ll never know…
Raw: After the stressful Kazakh hospital experience, we were very hungry and felt like treating ourselves. This upscale izakaya was exactly what we wanted and needed. It was on the pricier side for Almaty, but was worth the splurge. The fish was fresh and sushi dishes delicious. We were in our travel clothes though (aka our only clothes) and got the feeling the hostess was watching us with a close eye as if we were up to no good dining there…
Bowler coffee: In search of a piece of honey cake for Doug after our Raw feast, we stumbled upon Bowler coffee. This cafe didn’t have honey cake, but it was hip and cozy. It turned out to be the perfect place for us to hole up and do some planning for our stretch in India over some espressos and Dutch pastries
Aurora: Similar to other great places we dined at in Almaty, Aurora was a sleek cafe we spotted while walking by the previous day. We’re glad we decided to check it out. We found a nice private spot upstairs by the windows and spent nearly the whole day here figuring out our plans in India (enough time for both breakfast and lunch). The food was a highlight – we dined on a delicious romanesco egg and croissant dish, ricotta cheese pancakes with blueberry and an almond croissant. It feels weird to say, but the bathroom here was also the most pleasant public bathroom we encountered on our trip
Cafeteria: Conveniently located next to the Ritz, we went to this trendy cafe for brunch. This restaurant could have been in the Gold Coast – the clientele decked out in designer clothes (except us obviously) and avocado toast on the menu. It was a nice change of pace, but may have also sparked the second episode of gastro issues for Doug that carried over to Nepal. Poor Doug :/
Where we stayed
- Airbnb 1: Our first Airbnb apartment was amazing. Although it was up several dark and cold flights of stairs in an old Soviet apartment block, the inside was completely gutted and redone. We joked that it was the apartment we would live in if we found ourselves living in Almaty. It was modern and minimalist, with a few neat touches like exposed brick and graffiti of Almaty points of interest on the walls
- Airbnb 2: We were originally supposed to be on another two-night Steppe Spirit trip to Altyn Emel national park, but it was cancelled last minute so we had to scramble to find another accommodation in Almaty. Luckily, we found this nice studio apartment in a different part of town that had everything we needed (read: kitchen to prepare our home cooked veggie paninis)
- Renion Park Hotel: We booked this local hotel chain room to gap fill a night leading up to our Steppe Spirit trip to the lakes and canyons. It was not a pleasant stay – the bathroom smelled of bizarre cleaning chemicals and the noises outside made it difficult to sleep (it sounded like there was drag racing on the adjacent street?) 10/10 do not recommend
- Ritz Carlton Almaty (on points): Our first credit card points splurge of the trip (thank you, consulting), this was spectacular as expected. The hotel also arranged a very cheap honeymoon package for us that included a welcome cake, bottle of champagne, massages, and full room service breakfast spread. They also decorated our room with rose petals and balloons which was a lovely touch. This felt like a honeymoon 🙂