Three days in Vang Vieng

Vang Vieng, Laos

Nam Xay Viewpoint

The lowdown

Vang Vieng is a strikingly beautiful part of Northern Laos situated between Luang Prabang and Vientiane. It once was infamous for its party scene, where backpackers would float down the Nam Song River on tubes and stop off at the countless riverside bars to indulge in booze and drugs. However, the government significantly scaled back this activity a decade ago following several fatalities. Today, most backpackers come here for the same reason we did – to experience some of the country’s most magnificent and unspoiled natural beauty. 

With the recent opening of the Lao-China high-speed rail, it is now incredibly quick and comfortable to reach Vang Vieng. We took this brand new train from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng and it took ~1 hour (controversies of the Belt and Road initiative aside, we’ve benefitted greatly from these infrastructure developments in Tajikistan and Laos). Not long into the train ride, Jessie started to feel nauseous. Unfortunately, this nausea would turn into a fierce 24-hour stomach bug leaving her bed-ridden for the first part our stay in Vang Vieng. 

Part of what made Vang Vieng such a great experience for us was the opportunity to reconnect with friends we made along the way in Laos. Luckily for Doug, our van transfer friends from Siem Reap – Croatian/Argentinian couple, Andrea & Santi, and Austrian solo traveller, Felix – happened to overlap with us in Vang Vieng. Doug would join our new friends for a day of adventuring on foot before a new and improved Jessie would round out the crew for another day adventuring on motorbike. In addition to meeting back up with our Siem Reap van transfer crew, we also met back up with Rick and Linda (our Kuang Si Falls hiking buddies from Luang Prabang) who treated us to an amazing and fun meal to celebrate our wedding and continue our discussions from the hike. It was super special for us to reconnect again with each respective group we met along the journey in Laos.

The downtown area of Vang Vieng is a bit underwhelming, so we spent our time here exploring all the naturally stunning areas and sites outside the city. Read on for a summary of our adventurous time in this awesome part of the country with “old” friends!

Day 1: Exploring on foot with old friends

Our first full day here started in an atypical fashion for us – Doug running errands to get Jessie Gatorade (which one store miraculously had in Vang Vieng) and then dining solo on the hotel breakfast buffet 🙁 

All of us staying in different accommodations, our Siem-Reap-van-transfer-turned-Vang-Vieng crew started the day by meeting at the Luang Prabang Bakery. This cozy open air bakery and cafe would serve as the perfect meeting place for us to start our next few days – a “Central Perk” for our time in Vang Vieng (shoutout Friends fans).

After catching up on the time since we left Andrea, Santi, and Felix in the 4,000 Islands, we were ready to embark on our day exploring Vang Vieng on foot. Among other things, Vang Vieng is known for its seven natural blue lagoons dotted around the area. Our plan was to start the day by visiting “Blue Lagoon 1” (the naming conventions are as straightforward as they get) and the famous cave nearby. We started by walking across the Nam Song river away from town, and it wasn’t long before we were on the main road surrounded by local fields and limestone cliffs. It quickly became clear why people love exploring this beautiful area so much.

As we walked down the main road, Santi became increasingly eager to find a more off-the-beaten-path hiking trail to the lagoon. We spotted what looked like a dotted line trail on Google Maps leading through the fields, so we veered off the road towards the fields to try to find the “trailhead” to this new route. After talking to some local farmers outside one of the houses, we made our way onto the fields in the direction they pointed and started loosely following what seemed to be small footpaths through the dry cracked dirt. 

It was surreal to be walking alone in the quiet fields surrounded by cliffs. However, the patchwork of paths we were following soon ran into a series of dead-ends. We finally found a back-road to follow through some beautiful rubber tree farms until we were back on the main road again.

Not a kilometer passed down the main road when we spotted a sign for a viewpoint hike called Pha Ngern (Silver Cliff) – it wasn’t part of our original plan, but we were up for a hike and decided “why not?” The hike actually ended up leading to two viewpoints – one roughly halfway up the mountain and the second towards the top. Both involved hikes up steep and rocky paths that left us incredibly sweaty from the hot and humid weather. The view at the first did not disappoint – it was a relatively clear day and we could see the valley covered in plots of farmland interrupted by imposing limestone cliffs and hills. A makeshift Laotian flag fixed to a bamboo pole and an empty dunebuggy car fixed to the cliff marked the viewpoint and made for excellent photo opportunities. We rehydrated and enjoyed the views from a shady spot before continuing on to the second viewpoint towards the top of the mountain. Those who stick it out for the second leg of the hike are rewarded with a much more peaceful and secluded second viewpoint, marked by a simple wooden platform with a roof. The views from higher up were also surprisingly even more striking than the first viewpoint despite a similar vantage point.

By the time we hiked back down to the base it was mid-afternoon. We were still a 5km walk up the main road to Blue Lagoon 1, but were determined to do it and cool off in the natural blue waters. Not long after setting off on foot again, a white pickup truck pulled over to the side of the road in front of us. We weren’t hitchhiking, but were met at the driver side window by an older Laotian man working on a tallboy Beerlao. He didn’t speak much English, but seemed open to dropping us off at Lagoon 1 – against our better judgement (though the drive was short and he did seem about his wits despite the drinking and driving) we hopped in. We arrived at Blue Lagoon 1 ahead of schedule and were in the water in no time. It was more crowded than expected and there was some construction going on around the lagoon, but we were enjoying the cool natural waters too much to care. 

After a day of hiking and swimming, there was only one thing left to do – enjoy a refreshing Beerlao (or two) and watch the hot air balloons (a very popular activity in Vang Vieng) lift off against the sunset. We hitched a ride back to the downtown area in a shared flatbed taxi. Andrea, Santi, and Felix had already been in Vang Vieng for a day and night and knew of a good spot, The Green Restaurant, to have drinks and watch the sunset. We grabbed a table on the patio along the Nam Song River, ordered our beers and some food to go with them, and admired the views. Our food and the sunset came and went, but we stayed a while longer chatting about everything from American tipping culture to the two tiered union system in Austria (side note: all private employees automatically pay into one union in Austria giving them access to a variety of independent resources they might need throughout their life and career – pretty cool). 

A great first day in Vang Vieng all things considered (read: a sick and bed-ridden Jessie).

Day 2: Exploring on motorbike and a lovely dinner with old friends

Day 2 began in much brighter fashion than Day 1 with a new and improved Jessie ready to take on Vang Vieng! We met back up with the crew at the daily meeting point – Luang Prabang Bakery – and talked about the game plan for the day. We planned to visit some sites further outside the main town, so we needed motorbikes to get around (we were very excited to embark on our second motorbike adventure after a successful start in Pakse!)

Motorbikes rented and gassed up, we hit the road out of town towards our first stop – the Kaeng Nyui waterfall. The highlight of this particular visit was the quiet ride through small villages to get to the waterfall. The waterfall, while nice, was a bit underwhelming given it was the dry season and only a few small streams of water were falling down what is typically a raging waterfall in the wet season. We enjoyed the shade for a few minutes next to the nice, cold streams and made the short hike back to our bikes.

Our next stop was a small but spectacularly beautiful village, Pha Tang, nestled along the Nam Song river and layers of imposing limestone cliffs. We enjoyed a long but beautiful 40-minute motorbike ride from the waterfall to the village that passed through farmland, cliffs, and people going about their days. We arrived in the village, parked our bikes off a small side street, and began walking towards the river. We had read about a small bamboo bridge over the Nam Song river and made our way towards the coordinates a fellow traveler shared on the web to find it. Unfortunately, there was no bamboo bridge when we visited. However, we spent an amazing few hours here walking along the river and through the farmlands towards the cliffs with hardly anyone else in sight. 

Hot and sweaty from our adventuring in the sun, we decided to make our way to one of the blue lagoons nearby Pha Tang – Blue Lagoon 4. As is the case with many sites in Laos, Google Maps didn’t have an accurate sense for where the lagoon was and took us to a point of nothingness along the road. Luckily, we did not give up and kept our eyes glued to signposting up the road until we spotted a wood sign with “Blue Lagoon 4” and an arrow pointing down a gravel side road. We followed this road, paid a woman the small fee to enter, and muscled our way across a bridge and through a small village until we arrived at the parking area. Blue Lagoon 4 was an oasis compared to Blue Lagoon 1 – an amazing natural pool set against a large cliff with very few other people around enjoying the day. We swam, used the makeshift zipline, and chatted for a while on the one wooden platform fixed in the middle of the lagoon. A great way to cool down after a day of adventure!

The last stop in our original game plan was hiking to the top of Nam Xay to watch the sun set – a must do activity in Vang Vieng. However, we spent a little too long enjoying Pha Tang and Blue Lagoon 4, so we did not make it back in time despite our best efforts. We parted ways with our crew and headed back to our hotel in town to freshen up for dinner. Rick and Linda, our hiking buddies from DC that we met in Luang Prabang, had invited us to a nice dinner to celebrate our wedding and continue our chats on life and travel. We met them at Restaurant du Crabe d’Or, a nicer sit-down spot (read: napkin in lap, waiter!) overlooking the river and courtyard at the Riverside Boutique Resort. It was an incredibly peaceful setting that felt a world away from the busy market street our hotel was set on. We had a blast with Rick and Linda chatting about travel, what’s next for us, and Rick’s idea for a potential documentary on the Lao UXO scrap metal value chain. We ended the evening with some fun and semi-competitive Bocce along the river.

Day 3: Taking care of unfinished business

We had some time before our van in the morning, so decided we would get up a little early and take our motorbike over to hike Nam Xay. It was an amazing morning ride through the farmland to the trailhead – the kind you day dream about when thinking of motorbiking in SE Asia. It was a quick but relatively steep and, at times, technical hike to the viewpoint. Along the way we encountered many individuals dressed more for a photoshoot than a hike – god only knows if they made it up and down in one piece.

The view at the top was awesome and one of the best we encountered in SE Asia. The vantage point from the iconic motorbike fixed to the rock with the flag of Lao was as good as the blog pictures suggested – it looked like a cliff was cutting right through the middle of the distant farmland. We snapped some pictures and enjoyed our last views of this beautiful region before navigating our way back down to the bike.

Before leaving Vang Vieng, we made one last stop at Luang Prabang Bakery to say goodbye to Santi and Andrea. Hopefully, our paths will across again at some point in the future! Reflecting on our time in Vang Vieng, it was everything we hoped it would be and more. Easily accessible and unspoiled Lao countryside, motorbiking, and time reconnecting with friends made along our travels. 

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